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Lefteris Tavern in Kampos, Crete, is one of those places that you find only if you take the coastal road to Elafonissi.
If you drive to Elafonissi along the coastal road through Livadia and Kampos instead of taking the faster inland route, you don’t just get better views. You also have a chance to meet people like the owner of Lefteris Rooms & Tavern – a family guesthouse and village taverna that still cooks the old-fashioned way, over real fire, even late at night.
This is not a trendy beachfront restaurant or an Instagram spot. It is the kind of place that quietly works for more than forty years, serving locals, Italians with paper maps, and a few lucky travellers who decide to stop when the rest of the island is already asleep.

Where is Lefteris Rooms & Tavern?
Lefteris Rooms & Tavern sits in a small village on the western side of Crete, on the scenic road that runs along the coast from Kissamos towards Elafonissi Beach via Livadia and Kampos. It is the kind of place you notice because of the warm light and the wooden veranda, not because of big signs or loud music.
Most people heading to Elafonissi use the faster inland road. But if you follow the coastal route, passing through villages and tiny bays, you eventually reach this quiet taverna with a few rooms upstairs, flowers around the entrance, and a simple sign that says “Lefteris Rooms & Tavern”.

Arriving at 11 p.m. – when every kitchen is already closed
My wife and I were driving towards Elafonissi late in the evening. It was already around 11 p.m., the hour when almost every village kitchen on Crete is closed. We had passed several villages without finding a place that still served food, and we were already mentally preparing to arrive at the campsite hungry.
Then we saw Lefteris Rooms & Tavern. Something about the place simply called us, so we stopped and walked in to ask the question: “Is it still possible to eat something?” The girl went to speak with the owner and came back with the answer that changed the whole night: “If they need food, I will light the fire.”
The owner who lit the fire just for us
A few minutes later the owner appeared. He has been in this business for about 43 years. Before him, it was his father who built the rooms and started the taverna. Instead of telling us that the kitchen was closed, he walked straight to the open grill, prepared the wood and charcoal, and lit a real fire. Within minutes the whole veranda smelled like honest village cooking.

What we ordered: giant pork brizola on live fire
We kept it simple and asked for what the taverna does best: two pork brizola steaks, grilled over the open fire. The owner first marinated the meat with a mixture of butter and rigani (Greek oregano), brushing it generously so that the herbs and fat would melt into the meat while grilling.

When the plates arrived, they were almost shocking in size: each brizola was a long, thick piece of perfectly charred pork, served with a mountain of fries and a wedge of lemon. The meat was smoky and juicy at the same time – the kind of flavour that only real fire and good meat can create.

All the mezze “on the house”
What makes this place truly special is not only the meat. While the brizola was grilling, the table slowly started to fill with small plates – mezze that we never actually ordered: freshly made tzatziki, crispy little bites of fried appetizers, homemade bread, and later, small sweets. All of this was offered as a gift.

The bill: simple, honest and more than fair
For two huge pork brizola steaks, all the mezze, bread, fries, local treats and two beers, the final bill was around €60 for two people. Considering the size of the portions, the quality of the meat, and the late hour, it felt almost symbolic. But the real value was being treated not as random tourists, but as guests.
Practical tips if you want to stop here
- Route: take the coastal road from Kissamos towards Elafonissi via Livadia and Kampos.
- Type of place: small family guesthouse with a traditional taverna.
- Best time: evening or night, when the veranda lights are on and the grill is working.
- What to order: pork brizola from the charcoal grill.
- Budget: around €25–30 per person for a full meal with drinks and plenty of sides.
Your First Day in Chania — Already Solved
Where to go, what to skip, where to eat, when to move, and how long everything realistically takes — already figured out for you by someone living in Crete.
No endless searching, random tourist stops, or wasted hours trying to plan the day yourself.
Just open the route on your phone and follow the day step by step.